"My project is deeply personal, which I think you can feel in the wines."

There is a one-hectare farm down a country lane in sun-kissed Kent. Here Sophie Evans works the land on a volcanic orange tractor, pursuing an intuitive and organic approach to vine and soil care that has seen her spearhead the new wave of young British winemaking. Her natural wines are made on site in a wooden barn, part of a seasonal practice that’s pushing the scene in new directions, and she’s doing it all on her own. We spent a day in the vines with Sophie, chatting about her story, practice, and her 5 Good Things.

What a time for British wine. UK vineyards have existed since the Romans were here, but right now the country’s reported to be the world’s fastest growing wine region. Where do you see yourself in this exploding viticulture? Are you part of a new breed, or keeping the old ways alive?

We're a relatively new industry, so I would say I’m part of a new way of looking at viticulture. However, I am looking to older ways of working with a heightened respect for nature. That is, working with the earth rather than against it or trying to tame it too much. Because we’re a new industry it’s an exciting time to push new viticulture thinking, reducing carbon footprints by reusing glass bottles that would otherwise be thrown away, and reusing all our cardboard packaging. The simplest actions can have the biggest impact long term.

To dive into that a bit more, can you share your approach with us? Where it stemmed from, what it means to you, how you see it unfolding?

I have always had an interest in what I put in my body, and in food and herbs as a means of staying healthy and happy. So, when learning about viticulture and wine making, it made sense to marry these things. It’s informed the way I tend the vines, the way I make the wine and the producers I seek to learn from. It definitely wasn't mentioned on my degree!

My practice involves using herbal remedies to treat and grow the vines. It’s something I really enjoy and am learning about all the time. My wines are made without chemicals so they’re a reflection of the year in the vineyard. Every season I become a better farmer (and in turn a wine maker). It’s about encountering new challenges and learning how to react for next time.

Ultimately, the more I experiment and drink wines with a similar approach to farming as my own, the more I find that respect for nature is what makes them so intriguing. I fall deeper in love with that connection and further down the rabbit hole I go.

What are the challenges and the joys of working in this way? How do you do the things you have to do when you don’t feel like doing them?

The challenges of not relying on conventional chemicals? Definitely the longer hours. And managing things by hands means a lot of nettle stings! But ultimately it gives the vines more life — I can see how they respond when I spray certain teas, for example. Seeing all the insects and animals that rely on my little ecosystem too, that brings me so much joy.

What’s it like dealing with The English ‘terroir’? The climate crisis is shaping things massively, but the UK’s still a very different kettle of fish to classic European wine countries like France, Spain and Italy, right?

I refer to it as ‘climate chaos’ because it’s made our weather so much more unpredictable. There doesn't seem to be a thing as a standard season anymore, which means new challenges are cropping up year on year - it definitely keeps me on my toes. We’ve had two very rainy summers recently which are hard when you’re managing disease in the vineyard. A bit more sunshine would be nice!

 I believe you worked in fashion for a while before studying at Plumpton College. What made you want to get into wine and making? Can you tell us about a formative experience you had?

I started out drinking wine! Then, well, I just became a bit obsessed with figuring out how it was made. I’m not from a farming background. I grew up in London, so when I started growing things in the garden that I could consume, it was a powerful moment. Realising that I could grow and make a thing I loved was amazing. I quit my job then got a job on a vineyard so I could figure it all out- which I’m still doing.

How would you describe the life of an independent winemaker? Has it changed since you went it alone? That was 2022, wasn’t it?

I’ve always wanted to have my own project. I had found a job in Germany at a winery where I farmed a small plot, producing my first wine in 2021. It was so rewarding seeing the whole process through, especially under the tutelage of someone I respected. I did miss home a lot though, so I ended up coming back to the UK to start a project on a larger scale.

I love my work — I get to do things exactly the way I like to. My project is deeply personal, which I think you can feel in my wines. The human element of terroir is something that really fascinates me.

What about the pace of life among the vines? Can you talk us through a typical summer’s day compared to winter?

At the moment I’m working with the plants a lot: green-pruning to create space in the canopy and give the bunches a better chance. Spraying season is beginning too, so I’m driving my tractor up and down rows. I do that a lot in the summer seasons. I do love my tractor, when it behaves. I always wanted one of my own. The sun stays out longer in summer so the days are longer. It can be gorgeous watching the sun go down.

In winter I’m pruning and wearing crazy layers, plus it gets dark at 3pm. The days look very different. I’m getting used to working with the rhythms of nature, taking a rest when the vines are resting, because when the vines are busy, I’m busy too.

There’s a certain sincerity to the English countryside. A romance in living for harvest, in tune with the seasons. Is the romance of the bucolic life a reality or a myth?

It’s hard to break the cycle of a conventional schedule. I’m not fully there yet, but when you can lean into it and live seasonally it feels really good. Truly experiencing the seasons feels like a privilege. It’s so exciting seeing everything come back to life in spring. I don’t think I’ll ever get bored of that.

The influences in your life. Is there a person, story or a place that’s inspired you, acted as a guiding star? It doesn’t have to be in terms of your career or vocation either. It can be a mindset, a sense of style, a way to be.

The Sussex countryside inspires me every day. I love it.

What is a rich fulfilling life to you — Sophie Evans?

Surrounding yourself with people you love, finding the joy in what you do every day. And a few good bottles of wine!

This last part is where we ask you to send some cultural inspiration out into the world, recommending 5 Good Things and the reasons why you chose them.

A restaurant or cafe you like in your city

It’s a wine bar called Collected Fictions in St Leonards. Good wine and everyone talks to each other, which is often a rarity.

A film everyone should watch

When I want to cry, You’ve Got Mail. When I want to laugh, Superbad. 

A book everyone should read

The One Straw Revolution by Masanobu Fukuoka. It’s a book about growing, first published in 1978.  If you're interested in farming this is so great. It inspired me a lot as a young wine grower.

A musical album or artist who means something to you

Artist wise, A Day to Remember- they always make me happy. An album would be For Those Who Have Heart.

Where you’d send someone if they were visiting your city or hometown for the first time

To the beach! You could get an oyster at Selkie Seafood Bar, or a fish sandwich at Goat Ledge while you're at it.

To find out more about Sophie and her practice, click here.

She wore the 3036 drill vest in Charcoal, 3001 drill overshirt and 3043 collared cardigan.